Grounding my 2nd Floor Shack

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Berne
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:36 pm
Location: EU

Grounding my 2nd Floor Shack

Post by Berne »

Hi Hammers,
I am considering transmission, and need advice re grounding the shack?
The grounding issue is not straight forward as Im on the second floor, most grounding tutorials I have read are excellent but refer only to grounding from either underground or ground level sites, so I have put my situation as an image on imageshack.com, my username is "recasted", fliename: proposalaus.gif, here you can right click on the thumbnail and 'save picture as' "Berne1" or similar to your desktop or desired folder...then you will be able to view the topic in more detail.

Firstly let me describe my shack, I hope to be using an ICOM IC-718 Transceiver if licence is attained...I will power the radio with a 14V 22AMP Cont power supply along with an average ATU max 200W capacity. Theory is to connect the ground of the Power Supply to the Radio and then via the Tuner to the grounding rod 20' below shackheight. Then via this grounding rod the same original coaxil cable is to continue via another lead from the rod out the other side of the grounding rod a few inches to where the 915 Line Isolator will be placed, at this point the coaxil will join the G5RV feed.

Antenna is 50' split in two 25' V sloped configuration ( adapted to suit topography limitation, advised angle > 120* not possible 45* is optimum ). I understand bandwitdth reception will be limited.

The Line Isolator MFJ-915, ( grounded version ) seems to be just the ticket for my second floor grounding issue, but where in the coaxil line do I put it. My very limited reseach did come upon an article which advised putting the 915 very close to the ground rod and yes this article was in relation to a second floor shack. I need justification on which side of the grounding rod to locate the
915 grounding version. Truthfully Im not quite sure of its technical purpose, I think the 915 is to act like a filter of ' bad news ie extreme RF returning to my TX?, if this is the case " Im all for that" ! Again please advise in easily read terms. I realise the 915 when located correctly must be coated in epoxy resin+tape.

All advice welcome and diagrams especially welcome. Please do view the image at imageshack.com, this will assist understanding.

Now edited: Thank you Dan a great contribution, I imagine your advice remains the same but just check out the image and confirm please?

Image

Lastly if you old timers know that using an antenna tuner will negate the use of MFJ-915 in my setup please advise of grounding preference that you feel would suffice in my situaltion, remember Im on the second floor, all ears...!

73's o Berne...[/b]
Last edited by Berne on Sat Jan 06, 2007 12:39 am, edited 2 times in total.
In a learning world...
WA9WVX
Posts: 103
Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2005 2:31 am
Location: QRZ Indicates Northern Illinois

Second Level Ham Shack

Post by WA9WVX »

Hello Berne,

I couldn’t access your diagram / picture on Imageshack dot com but I’ll attempt to address the Grounding Issues that you’re wondering about. Since your future ham shack will be located on the second floor of the structure, then here’s what I will discuss and recommend.

What type of a Ground System are you attempting to build?

Most grounding systems implemented in commercial two-way radio installations is used to prevent major lightning damage to the radio equipment if the antennas should be struck by lightning. They’re also installed to eliminate stray RF and AC power voltage differences between the different pieces of equipment within the station system, eliminating electrical shock hazards. In an Amateur Radio Station you’re essentially trying to incorporate the same techniques. Remember, Safety First!

You want to keep all ground leads as short as possible within reason therefore providing the least resistance to the actual earth ground itself. When measuring ground systems most electrical power and/or telecom companies use an instrument called a “Megger” for measuring the resistance between the earth ground rods and equipment. In most cases, hams do not have access to this device so we have to research and refer to publish electrical specification from known sources such as the EIA/TIA, the Reference Data For Radio Engineers, the RSGB or the ARRL handbooks.

Grounding is very important to provide a common ground bonding point between the structure’s (building) electrical 121/220/240V AC primary power source and the new antenna system / station ground. Lightning has been known to come down an antenna feedline and/or antenna structure (tower) and having a potential difference between the antenna system when properly grounded Negative Charged and if the structure’s primary power and/or telecom wiring ground is not tied together properly this ground appears to be a Positive Charge. Then the lightning will arc over, coming back up on the primary power and Telco lines blowing electrical breakers, damaging consumer electronic equipment and land-line telephones inside the structure on its destruction path.

Since I have no idea what your multi-floor structure construction is comprised of, wood, brick, concrete or metal, but you have provided a length of 20 feet between earth ground and the second level then I would suggest to purchase the required length of .257 inch stranded copper wire with a Black or Green insulation to install between the 10 foot copperweld ground rod (driven into the earth ground) and the second level. The larger the copper cable is, the less it appears as an inductance or inductor in a grounding system. I’m not sure since you reside in Europe whether you have access to building supply stores similar to the U.S. Retail Outlets like The Home Depot or Lowe’s, which are Do-It-Yourself type stores.

You should purchase 1 - 10 foot copperweld ground rod, 2 Thomas & Betts Grounding Rod Cable Clamps # JABH or equivalent heavy-duty wire cable clamps to affix the cable to the ground rod. Add a second # 4 or # 6 AWG wire / cable with a Green insulation at the required length to the building’s 240V AC electrical primary power panel ground terminal to prevent voltage differences between the new antenna / radio equipment ground and the existing primary electrical power source to the structure. Green insulation indicates that the wire cable is associated with the ground circuit.

At the second level providing you can get approval from the owner of the structure / building, measure the thickness between the outside & inside walls and drill a hole directly through the structure’s wall. Purchase a Steel threaded rod .25-inch diameter at the required length with 4 nuts, couple of locking washers and a pair of 4 X 4 X .125 inch Aluminum or Steel metal plates to mount the threaded rod through the wall and to prevent the hardware from crushing the drywall interior wall when tightening the hardware.

Thomas & Betts also manufactures and sells large cable clamps BTC3104-B2 or equivalent manufacture to affix to the large copper cable and the threaded rod. Once all the exterior electro-mechanical connections are tightened in place, brush on 3-M Liquid Electrical Tape on the connections preventing any corrosion from starting.

Harger – OEM Lightning Protection Supplier

http://www.harger.com/

Thomas & Betts – OEM Electrical Connector & Grounding Supplier

http://www-public.tnb.com/ps/util/index ... _grounding

Surplus Sales of Nebraska – New & Used Equipment Supplier

(WBR) GB-500 Tinned Braid

http://www.surplussales.com/

Do all the radio components need to be connected together?

Yes because this reduces electrical shock hazards between the individual component boxes within the radio room. I would recommend purchasing a minimum of 25 feet by .5 inch Width of Tinned Braid. The Braid is a non-resonant RF wire preventing RF ground loops. On most pieces of radio equipment in the rear there’s a winged nut for connecting the ground braid / wire too and then running the braid to the common earth ground connection. In your situation it will be the .25 inch threaded rod.

How close does the antenna tuner need to be to Ground?

In your situation the Antenna Tuner could be placed within 4 to 10 feet of your new grounding system. Naturally the shorter the braid ground length would be wiser.

What type of feedline are you intending to use with the MFJ-971 Tuner?

Now here’s an interesting question in regards to the type of RF transmission line to be used with the antenna tuner. Using the IC-718 H.F. transceiver, you should purchase a good grade 1 KW Loss Pass Filter and place it in between the transceiver and the antenna tuner. The Low Pass Filter reduces all unwanted spurious RF harmonics from the H.F. transceiver. Use RG-213/U 50 Ohm (95% Shielded) coaxial cable with PL-259 connectors on both ends of the coaxial cable.

Insert one PL259 into the transceiver’s SO239 RF Output connector and the other end of the coaxial cable with its PL259 into the Input SO239 of the Low Pass Filter. Take a second RF coaxial cable with PL259 connectors on both ends and insert one PL259 connector into the Low Pass Filter SO239 Output connector and the opposite end with it’s PL259 connector will insert into the MFJ-971 antenna tuner RF Input SO239 connector. The MFJ-971 antenna tuner has 2 or 3 different output connectors, one being a SO239 Coaxial, a second pair for open ladder line like used on the G5RV antenna and the third configuration would be for load a single open line or a inverted “L” antenna.

First you need to realize that the MFJ-971 Antenna Tuner does nothing more than present a 50 Ohm load to the H.F. transceiver by the inductors and capacitors in the tuner compartment itself when a non-resonant antenna is connected to the units output connectors. It doesn’t perform any RF filtering or improve antenna performance. It’s just a matchbox between the transmitter and the antenna. :D

The reason a Grounded antenna tuner is important is it allows the user to tune the antenna circuit easier and having less stray RF in the operating room. You should have minimal frequency degradation on transmit or receive of RF signals while using the IC-718 H.F. Transceiver and the MFJ-971 Antenna Tuner. 8)

Let me take this issue one step further in relationship to the Voltage Standing Wave Ratio or VSWR of the antenna load indicated below:

A 3 to 1 VSWR equals 25% of the Transmit RF signal is Reflected

A 2 to 1 VSWR equals 11% of the Transmit RF signal is Reflected

A 1.5 to 1 VSWR equals 4% of the Transmit RF signal is Reflected

A 1.4 to 1 VSWR equals 3% of the Transmit RF signal is Reflected

A 1.3 to 1 VSWR equals 2% of the Transmit RF signal is Reflected

A 1.2 to 1 VSWR equals 1% of the Transmit RF signal is Reflected

A 1.1 to 1 VSWR equals a perfect match

In the Commercial Land Mobile Radio FM and SSB communication systems, any reading of 1.5:1 VSWR or lower is perfectly acceptable and trying to reduce the 1.5:1 to 1.4:1 or lower is only a waste of your time because it will never change the received signal.

Lets look at the transmission line or feedline Pros and Cons. Did you know that properly installed “Open Ladder Line” has LESS RF signal loss than the best 50 Ohm Andrew’s Heliax RF Coaxial Cable? Yes, it’s true even up into the 500~600 MHz UHF Frequency range. Ladder line presents a constant 300, 450 or 600 Ohm Balanced Impedance depending on the open ladder line used in the antenna system. The drawbacks happen when there’s a change in our weather conditions such as rain, snow or ice that collects on the open wire lines changing the impedance and your transmitter will always require some sort of an antenna tuner or matchbox. Ladder line is not suitable for mobile applications.

Using a good grade of 50 Ohm Coaxial Cable for the H.F. bands such as RG-213/U Military Spec which has 95% shielding and solid dielectric between the shield and the center conductor oppose to RG-8/U provides an all purpose RF transmission coaxial cable in any kind of weather or mobile application. The only disadvantage is the RF line losses above 40 MHz, which is 1.2 dB per 100 feet or 22% of the RF Output Power is lost in the feedline. As the frequency increases to 150 MHz the line losses increase to 2.8 dB per 100 feet or 48% of the RF Output Power is lost in the feedline and at 450 MHz, which is 5.2 dB per 100 feet or 72% of the RF Output Power is lost in the feedline.

Above 30 MHz the use of Andrew’s or RFS Cablewave Heliax RF coaxial cable takes over because this type of feedline has much lower “dB’ Losses Per 100 Feet / Meters characteristics at 30 MHz, 50 MHz, 70 MHz, 150 MHz, 220 MHz, 450 MHz, 900 MHz and Microwave Frequencies. This cable is not normally suited for mobile applications.

Whether you use the G5RV Open Ladder Line connected directly to your MFJ-971 Antenna Tuner which will require 2 individual Porcelain type feed-through to get the line outside or RG-213/U coaxial cable which again will require a bulkhead SO239 feed-through. These come in many lengths up to 8 to 10 inches long with mounting nuts, is strictly your choice.

If you’re using a G5RV antenna in an inverted “V” configuration, the top of the “V” should be between 30 or 40 feet above earth ground and the inverted “V” will act as an Omni-directional antenna. Remember to keep the wire ends insulated and above earth ground by 2 or 3 feet.

The equipment and DC power voltage requirements.

In your text you’ve mentioned using a 22V Power Supply for the ICOM IC-718 transceiver. I hope that was a typo and you meant 12V DC. Most if not all solid state Amateur Radio equipment operates off of +13.8V DC Negative Ground Power Supplies or Automotive electrical systems. If you’re intending to use 22V on that transceiver, I think it’s heading to the repair shop immediately if not sooner! :roll:

73,

Dan :D
WA9WVX
WA9WVX
Posts: 103
Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2005 2:31 am
Location: QRZ Indicates Northern Illinois

2nd Floor Grounding and G5RV Antenna

Post by WA9WVX »

Hi Berne,

Let me study your drawing as I have to decipher the reference letters A through D concerning the individual locations of each item. I may need some future questions answered for clarification so we don't have a disconnect in our written communications.

Dan
WA9WVX
Berne
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:36 pm
Location: EU

Drawing Explanation

Post by Berne »

Hi Dan,

Lets see..firstly apologies on the resolution...limited experience in producing good images on a forum.

The materials of my dwelling are brick walls with a flat felted roof with wooden joyces as a floor and ceiling. The yard floor where the rod will need to be driven is concrete but I fear down two feet I may hit the foundations which may impede the rods insertion.

Im now using and have installed a Half Size G5RV, usable on 10-40mtrs. It is a sloping arrangement with only 45* between the two elements. With one insulator installed a few inches from each chimney allowing the elements to hang in free air. At the bottom of the 'V' junction is the main connection of the feeder ( ladderline ), now I have enclosed these open wires against the fascia and covered the whole junction by a plastic box which is screwed to the fascia...this should protect the junction of exposed wires from the weather ect, see the 'A' position on the drawing.
From this A box, the ladderline begins to travel down the wall ( tacked by small plastic cable huggers to the wall ) about 20' where I think an encased insulated balun of some description has been fitted with a 259 connection, here we are at point 'D' in the drawing where I placed another box to protect the joining of the ladderline to the coaxil. The coaxil then is run back up my wall and in through my bedroom window, where it is connected to the tuner. I have another coaxil connecting tuner and TX as expected.

As I am not allowed to transmit, I have been judging the reception...and although I have only been monitoring for a few weeks I can say that the two important bands for me are getting in, that of 14mhz and 7mhz...I am still finding my way on what else I should hope for in the way of SSB voice ( my main interest at this time). I do know that its very likely that I will not receive even half the potential of the G5 as its advised to have around 120* of an angle between the two elements and this is not possible so I expect Im lucky enough to be getting the listed frequencies Dan. Space as you can see is very tight in this built up area, anyhow please read on.

Your main advice re the grouding will be possible I think without any adjustment to my existing lines...unless advised otherwise. Also I have difficulty with complying with the 10' length....I have a 5' 5mm rod which I hope might suffice, inserting it around 4.5', of course I will get a 10' if optimal re safety? I will also run a ground from it to the main grounding of our home after getting the electricity boards go ahead.

A-B = 25'
A-C = 25'

From 'A' corner to the base of 'D' wall is c.22'.

All for now,

Berne...

P.S. If you read the original post you will see that I show my power supply correctly I think as a 14V supply, you were thinking I listed a 22V supply and tha I would soon be expected at the repair store?
Lastly I see your callsign begins with WA, let me know if you have time about USA callsigns or give reference...its just I thought WA would be for hams from Wasington state?
Very laslty if one element is called the phasing line what is the other called? Impedence is stated for the antenna to be 50ohms and the resonant band is 10mtrs.
In a learning world...
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