withdrawn

Just what it says -- this is the place for any discussions not related to Buying, Selling and Trading ham gear. The discussion must be related to Ham Radio.
Post Reply
KD1UJ
Posts: 52
Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:46 pm

withdrawn

Post by KD1UJ » Thu Apr 27, 2006 6:00 pm

I am withdrawing this post. QTH.com has a policy of allowing hate speech. As a matter of principle, I cannot support this site by allowing my contributions to be used here.
Last edited by KD1UJ on Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Pizwiz
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 12:16 pm
Location: Rochester, New York

Post by Pizwiz » Fri Apr 28, 2006 9:33 am

This is a tricky business, even if you weigh 250lbs and stand 6'4".
You are going to need at least one assistant if you plan to do it from a ladder.
Carrying the weight of the Jackhammer up the ladder and putting a load on it will definitely upset the ladder.
You have to have someone to steady the Ladder for you. I would feel much better if you could tie the ladder to something solid. !!
Have you considered renting a small scaffold? I know it's more money again, but I'd hate to see you get seriously hurt.

Adolph
The most UNcommon thing in the world is common sense. !

KD1UJ
Posts: 52
Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:46 pm

Post by KD1UJ » Fri Apr 28, 2006 10:13 am

I am withdrawing this post. QTH.com has a policy of allowing hate speech. As a matter of principle, I cannot support this site by allowing my contributions to be used here.
Last edited by KD1UJ on Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Pizwiz
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 12:16 pm
Location: Rochester, New York

Post by Pizwiz » Fri Apr 28, 2006 11:33 am

If you decide to use the pole driver, a lot will depend on the exact spot you happen to choose. You could luck out and get a reasonably soft ( comparatively speaking ) spot and the driver would work fine. Hit a hard spot and you'll get a real workout.
I must have pounded in a few thousand fence posts with these things ( at least it seems that way) in Northern Nevada while working on a Ranch.
But however it goes, you'll be in terrific shape when you're done !
Just think, terrific ABS and Shoulders and no Bowflex or Gym in sight !!
:D :D :D

Adolph
The most UNcommon thing in the world is common sense. !

KD1UJ
Posts: 52
Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:46 pm

Found an easier, cheaper way to do this!

Post by KD1UJ » Mon May 01, 2006 4:53 am

I am withdrawing this post. QTH.com has a policy of allowing hate speech. As a matter of principle, I cannot support this site by allowing my contributions to be used here.
Last edited by KD1UJ on Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

WA7OET
Posts: 8
Joined: Sun May 23, 2004 6:00 pm

Post by WA7OET » Thu May 04, 2006 1:19 am

You want a rotor hammer, not a jack hammer. The ground rod driver will work but you still have to work up a sweat using it. You can usually get a few feet into the ground by using your hands... then get a 6 ft ladder and put the rotor hammer over the end of the rod and lean on the hammer and pull the trigger... it will take a few minutes but you will get it.
Be sure to place the rod out far enough from the house to avoid the footings...I live not too far from you so if you need any help let me know.

Will
WA7OET

ka5wzy
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 2:25 pm
Location: Bastrop, Texas

Post by ka5wzy » Tue May 23, 2006 6:41 pm

Hey, If you could find a good iron water pipe, you might be better off.
Driving a rod through mostly rock is a pretty "POOR" ground. Rock has alot of silica which is a good insulator, you would need lots of soil around the rock for a good ground.
If the rock is that dense you may need to "DOPE" your ground, for better conductivity.
KA5WZY
Reed Hurley

KN4N
Posts: 46
Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2003 11:08 am
Location: Greeneville, TN
Contact:

Ground rods

Post by KN4N » Wed May 24, 2006 1:51 am

I put in an average of 3 to 6 10 ft ground rods a week and most time never use a hammer. You push it in as far as you can, pull it out, fill hole with water, plunge it in more, remove, more water, just keep doing this and you will get it downd. I am in the lightning protection business and put these in all the time like this....if you can only get a ground rod in 4 feet or so, you can saw it off, move out 6 feet, put the rest in and tie the 2 in series and that will work. Sometimes we get into so much solid rock I have to burry a 12" X 24" solid copper plate for ground. An old car radiator burried also makes a gud ground.
Bill

KD1UJ
Posts: 52
Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:46 pm

Post by KD1UJ » Wed May 24, 2006 11:29 pm

I am withdrawing this post. QTH.com has a policy of allowing hate speech. As a matter of principle, I cannot support this site by allowing my contributions to be used here.
Last edited by KD1UJ on Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

KN4N
Posts: 46
Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2003 11:08 am
Location: Greeneville, TN
Contact:

ground rods

Post by KN4N » Thu May 25, 2006 1:23 am

Hey, I'am know as "over kill Bill" and you going abt it the right wayI wish I could get you some of the wire I use. It's 32 str of 17 ga copper but its $3.22 ft plus the shipping. I use it for the downleads to ground rods. You would also have to have the large glamp for it to rod....this will get into a bit of cost for you tho.
Gud luck with the project

ai4jd
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jun 12, 2006 12:25 am

ground rod

Post by ai4jd » Wed Jun 28, 2006 12:06 am

hello im a lineman by trade and have worked all over and what i have found to work really well is large hammer drill with a large enough chuck to slip over the the ground rod youll get a hammer action while the rod spins if its still giving you trouble trickle water down the ground rod while you use the hammer drill 73 mike ai4jd

Post Reply